There are moments in life when something big is going to happen. There’s nothing you can do about it except ride it out and have fun along the way. When you’re surfing big swell, there are a lot of those moments. A giant set comes through and happens to crumble right under you, so down you go into a natural washing machine. For some, time slows down and a sense of peace falls over them right before they eat it.
Last week at Encuentro beach there were pretty gigantic waves rolling through the beaches. Set waves from 12 feet and over gave the town a lot to talk about. One of the highlights for me was watching this guy go over the falls. It was the biggest wave that I had seen that day and this surfer eagerly tried to catch it. Unfortunately for him he didn’t make the drop…..and fell….about 10 feet…then got sucked back up….. and slammed back down into a bubbly chaos. Luckily for him it was the last wave of the set and he didn’t have to endure more waves of that size, or bigger.
I saw him going for the wave from the start so I caught every moment with my camera. I even made the GIF below for your viewing pleasure =)
Just call it our little gift to you to escape the lingering winter. At least you’re not this guy, right?!?!
Body: Canon 7D
Lens: EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6L IS USM
Focal Length: 135mm
Settings: f/5 at 1/2000